Chaotic Fashion
Image is a close up of Kidumesh's face.
By Morningstar Sigma.
date: 17/07/2025
My wonderful partner has agreed to do another drawing for this site, and while she's making it she asked me: how do people dress in the Sanguinary Utnapistim? What would fashion be like in a functional chaos society? This was pretty fascinating to me so I decided to try and take a more systematic approach to the question. (Also, I must admit, partly inspired by following the fashion Menswear Fashion Guy and through him getting into interesting ideas about how a society's fashion reflects its values. So read on to see my thoughts on how and why the people of the Sanguinary Utnapishtim dress as they do!
Now, first, I must admit, I have not previously put too much thought into it. So I will quickly review what I have established. First, there is a reasonably coherent style for officers of the army vs common soldiers. This is for the obvious reason that I can follow the models released by games workshop and my own painting. So the people who are officer class have tended to be vaguely 19th Century Imperial officer corp in their style:

Taken from elswhere on the site so you can find artist credits for them here. I hope that is ok!
So some things to note here. The base colours in the army are Red, Orange, and Black. Gold-trim tends to appear on broccadage for officers. I should say in my mind I have been thinking that there is some cultural association between blue and positions of command This is because the first officer model I painted had that feature:

Yuzi used this as basis for her portrait.
But now I actually gather them together it's really only there in the one. I think if I want that association to exist I am going to have to do more to actually request it when commissioning art. In any case, ok, there we have our officer class. How about the common soldiery?
Here, again following the models, I have gone for the base uniform scheme with more of a Starship Troopers style generic sci-fi soldier aesthetic:

Beyond the base colour I think we can see that the common soldiery have more of the Very Spikey aesthetic one generally associates with the 40k everything-is-an-80s-metal-album-cover-forever chaos aesthetic.
Those are, so to speak, the easy cases. But I have had at least some depictions of people who are not in the army! Unfortunately, of course, the circumstances still tend to be violent due to the nature of the setting. Still, let's see what we have:

The top left is a priestess, top right is a logistician,
bottom left is a child, bottom right is a police officer.
As far as I can recall there is only one instance of me paying attention to the clothing of the people in writing, coming from this story wherein at one point I say: "[t]he logisticians, having reached the armoury, were now changing out of scribe's robes and into crude body-armour, while grabbing shivs or clubs. Fastening their spiked shoulder-pad, Parākum..." We then see such a person depicted in the accompanying art work:

Note the blue, I did want that to also indicate this is a higher ranking bureaucrat.
Finally, there was another case where even though I did not discussion the fashion I was actually thinking about it a lot and it affected how I instructed the commission artist. This was a case where I was asking for an in-universe propaganad piece depicting an extremely high ranking (arguably the second most powerful person in the Empire) in a fake-candid shot. You can see the result here:

Art I commissioned, by Morningstar Sigma.
This is meant to be extremely staged and inauthentic, while trying to appear unposed and candid. And part of what is meant to create that effect is that his soldier looks like an especially clean pressed version of the common soldier's garments, he's even somewhat absurdly wearing body armour while sitting in a safe room far behind the front-lines, and with his ornate traditional mask carefully set aside - so you know he's got it, but that he is not actually wearing it. More on all this in a moment.
Ok so that's what I have so far; what did I want it to signal about the society? There was more than no thought put into it, but I must admit often I think I am simply following the thought GW already did and retroactively being able to claim it. But here's the idea: the Sanguinary Utnapishtim is indeed a deeply inegalitarian and highly militarised expansionist Empire. They are also (by the by and in the main) pious worshippers of murder-Satan, who think that rage-fueled brutality and efficiency in mass-murder are supreme virtues. This creates a bias towards militaristic fashion -- their priestess, for instance, has clothing that emphasises religious sygils and displays of skulls and spikes; but is not fundamentally distinct from a squaddies battledress. Likewise their police uniforms are more crude and rustic (indicative of relative funding priority) but clearly militaristic -- also designed to intimidate, since ultimately the police are here to maintain a teror state rather than actually suppress crime. Go read the story, they have a rather complex relationship with crime!
Their officers have variations on 19th century European Imperial powers uniforms as that is a neat visual cue to the real-life audience for the kind of people they are (here I am just taking from the visual language GW already created for the Imperium), and also, again tries to balance clear militarism . This is what I imagine the role of the blue accenting is -- clearly stands out against the red/orange/black dominant colours of the uniform, without diminishing or seeming less military as a result. The reason I had the propaganda picture drawn a certain way was in fact because I guessed there might be a tension in such societies: on the one hand a sort of cult of machismo and respect for the manly brutality of frontline combat (taken to absurd extremes here; where I note the fact that they'd wear aviator-shades at all times, especially indoors, is drawn attention to) would make people want to render themselves close to common soldiers in appearance. Yet on the other hand extreme inegalitarianism and strong expectation of immediate deference to authority would render visual markers of superiority expedient. So Kidumesh Demigaur ends up wanting to convey that he does indeed have the antique-masque signalling connection to their highest traditions of authority, but also to be seen dressed for battle at all times.
Finally, civilian clothing. I have already mentioned the priestess and cop, but I just want to note that I took a bit of a cop-out here. The logisticians I largely have in robes, and I have rationalised this in the following way: they are conquering Imperium planets, and in canon-lore the Imperium's adepts are part of a quasi-monastic organisation and dressed as such. (They're also just flat out really poor so very simple clothing for the majority of common people is forced upon them by economic necessity .) I want one of the Big Picture jokes of the setting to be that it turns out living under rule-by-murder-Satan is actually not that different from living under the Imperium, with the main difference being that, if anything, muder-Satanists are actually more efficiently doing the same stuff; see e.g. here. It seemed to accentuate that line of thinking that if you get conquered by the Sanguinary Utnapishtim you basically just turn up at the office and keep doing exactly the same stuff as before, so the uniform change just amounts to ripping out the aquillas and sewing in Khornate sygils and that's pretty much it. I still endorse this... but I also think it means I am basically being boring, not using the opportunity to think more seriously about what alternatives might exist.
Finally, there is a big ommission in all this. There are very few depictions of slaves, despite wardum representing the majority of the population (around 75-80% in my headcanon). The child is of ambiguous status during the story they feature in (indeed the drama derives from that), and while the particular logistician I have highlighted in the composite image above is not a slave it's stated a few times that there will be slaves among the logistician corp who will be wearing the same uniform. (How do I know the one depicted is not wardum? Because it's established that the right to bear arms is traditionally reserved for non-slaves, leading to the phenomenon of the "management machete" you can see shieved at his side.) So we know a bit about how slaves or potential slaves will dress. But on the whole I have been really really unsure about what to do with this because I can't decide how the economics of this would work. I think my own worldbuilding has screwed me over here as I am imagining them as something like slaves-of-the-state something on the model of Spartan helots, but where I assume they had household production plus a small internal market to meet their needs, my chaps exist in something like a command economy subject to 8 Year Plans. What sort of capacity for expressive fashion would even exist under such a system? I am not sure and I need to think more about it.
(I realised after posting that I had missed out on something that would obviously be a very significant part of fashion in our world: fashion as expressing or accentuating sexuality. Now, I do envision this as a rather repressed and prudish society (see e.g. this drabble for a bit of in-universe officially licesned erotica) so on the whole I just think this would be less of a thing for their fashion than it is in ours. That said, they are not unaware of the motivational power of sex and sex-appeal and have been known to make use of it in their propaganda. The rather obvious thought I have had in this regard, of course, is that a Khornite society would highly eroticise violence. So in the art I have commissioned this has been what is emphasised:

I do think, just from observing social trends nowadays and reflecting on what I know of critical theory, that I have perhaps under-appreciated the degree to which sexual-hang-ups and psychodramas feature in the violent authoritarian man's mind. So even though this sort of "they mostly don't use their fashion expression for sexual attractiveness, but where they do they play up its link to violence" has guided my thought, I will probably have to do something more nuanced with this in future.)
To summarise, I think that the Sanguinary Utnapishtim is in the rather odd position of being a society religiously dedicated to a chaos god, but having interpreted that ideology in a very rigid and rationalising fashion. As such they are attempting to impose a sort of militaristic uniformity faciliated by mass production in a command economy, all overlaid on the roiling madness of Khornite chaos worship. From this I conclude that individualistic expression would be discouraged in favour of conformity to a warlike collective, and that collective would be set up to intimidate its large slave population, in addition to (given the legalised role for duelling) each individual needing to hype up how scary they are with the spikes and what not to scare off anyone who might want to challenge you for status. Yet at the same time chaos disrupts patterns, and the inegalitarian nature of the society generates a heavy premium on doing things to mark oneself out as high status since you can reap very high rewards for doing so -- hence people would find opportunities for relatively subtle status markers like flashes of blue correlating with rank, and where it is socially licensed to show off, military rank, being ostentatious in its display. These are the core social tensions of the society, and as I take the setting forward I want the fashion to reflect that.